Survey Design for the second-hand fashion products

Topic 4: Survey Design

Student: Wong Chi Fai (Marcus)

This journal will include the following contents:

Critical Review 1

1. The introduction of the background

2. The objective of the survey

3. Target segment for the survey

4. Where and how to collect the data

5. How to analyze the data for gaining insights into the subject

Critical Review 2

Critical Review 1

This time, i did the critical review first before starting to do the survey design.

For the reason that i did the critical review first was because i needed to know what was the situation.

What?

After the brand audit had been done, i tried to think more about the possibilities if we can do something like 2nd Street in HK. This is not an easy one because actually second hand fashion products or some people called it as vintage fashion, is still not a popular culture in Hong Kong. At least i don't have too many friends are eagle to buy it.

Though, there are already some here in HK, we still can not make a conclusion yet.

As i would like to explore more about the possiblities and chances of this business in the future. I would like to use survey to better undestand of this topic. So, the survey design is a good practise as a rehersal before the real actions.

As i am not going to research for any brands, i would start to do this survey design for products(second-hand fashion products). 2nd Street is not the object but it acted as a reference before i considering more deelply on this journal.

For the second part of the critical review, i would do in the last part of this journal so that i can know more about what i have learnt and what i found.

I would start the introduction in the following parts and hope to show more explanation of my critical review which was written in the previous journal.

The introduction of the background

The rising trend of reused fashion products

“I started to feel a bit sick from the amount of clothing that was constantly being produced,” said Fung, who previously worked at luxury retailer Lane Crawford in Hong Kong. (Bard, 2019)

Actually, with the rise of fast fashion in around 10 years before. The market of fashion is going to have another change. One of the hottest topic is how to make fashion products(fashion products includes but not limited to clothing, accessories, hats, bags, etc) more sustainable so that less waste will produce.

Recently, thredUP, the world’s largest online thrift store, predicted that the second-hand clothing market would be larger than fast fashion by 2028 in the USA. (thredup.com, 2021)

And if we review the situation in 2019, fashion resale was already gained its momentum and grew 25 times faster than the broader fashion retail sector.(BMI Lab, 2021)

How ‘s the situation in HK ?

A study which titled Clothing Consumption, Usage and Disposal Habits in Hong Kong, reported that 40% of Hong Kong people keep clothing for one or less than one year. And, nearly a third thrown away the unwanted clothing in the rubbish bin even some of them were never been worn. (Ho, 2020)

(Fig.1)(WWF, s.d.)

As indicated by WWF, "clothing accounts for 15 per cent of Hong Kong’s Ecological Footprint”. (WWF, s.d.)

The Ellen MacArthur Foundation predicted that "if today's textiles economy continues in a business-as-usual scenario, by 2050 we will have released over 20 million tons of plastic microfibres into the ocean.''(The Standard, 2018)

"But for the circular economic model to apply, efforts cannot just be confined to the cycle of production alone. A truly circular economic model can work only with the full application of the green technology, material sourcing, recycling; and of equal importance are the consumer behavioral changes, rightful marketing and pricing in support of a sustainable economy.''(The Standard, 2018)

(Fig.2)(Bans, 2020)

This picture illustrated the concept of circular economy. The aim of it is to reduce waste and make good use of our resources. Repair/reuse is also one of the elements in it.

Although some of the HK people still thinking that the second-hand clothing will cause "Bad Luck", the attitudes of HK consumers is undergoing a change. Recently, more people in HK said that they are changing their fashion consumption behaviours because of the pandemic. The actions they would like to do more are reuse the clothings and donate the unwanted items. (Ho, 2020)

With this as a background and my study of a reused brand called 2nd Street, I would like to explore the business opportunities of reused fashion products in HK. Before the actual actions, a proper survey study can contribute a lot for knowing the market.

2. The Objective of the Survey

What is survey design and why we need it?

Before talking about the objective, we should clarify what is survey design and why i am here to do this before starting a new business.

A survey is a systemic method for gathering information from a sample of entities.

It is used as a method to gather information that cannot be observered directly.

For example, i did a observation research of SOLO builiding a month ago. At that time, i could observe the people flow and the business which was doing there. However, if only use observation research, i could not observe how the customers knew them and actually what they really thought before and after going to there. In addtion, if i would like to start a new business, i can't and shouldn't just observe what is right here in the market. If i do something that exactly the same like the other people is doing, what are the benefits to consumers and why they need to choose me if the things are almost the same.

These are the reasons for conducting a survey, because it is useful when we want to know the customers’ attitudes, behaviors, opinion and belief. (Avedian, 2014)

The objective:

First of all, setting an objective for the survey is very important as it will guide the steps and help us to make an effective plan to carry out the survey. Besides, this also helps to ensure the questions are relevant to the objective. (SmartSurvey, s.d.)

To better know the objective of my survey, let's summarize some facts as a guide.

1. As mentioned in the introduction, there are reports indicated that reused clothing is a big business in the near future, at least from now to 2028.

2. It is a global trend in fashion/clothing industry.

3. Hong Kong people are more willing to buy used clothing.

4. The success of 2nd Street (The brand I introduced in the previous journal) showed a good example of how a reused brand can provide to consumers.

What i need to know then?

If the situation were located in HK, then what should I need to explore if I am interested in that business? The overall market situation

The segmentation that needed to be focused

The behavioral, psychographics, demographics and geographics of the target market

The persona of the target market so that we can create a corresponding brand personality later

The possible ways to carry out the business (This will not be included in this journal as it needs a more detailed research but i wrote here to remind myself).

After having the above considerations, the objectives are listed below.

To estimate the market size of the second-hand fashion products

-What 's the buyer's background and who i am talking with?

-Do they have experience of buying second hand clothing/products?

To ensure the target segment is the main customer

-Are they going to buy? To what extend?

To acquire the target consumers attitudes towards second hand fashion products

-What are the reasons if they choose to buy second hand clothing?

-What are the concerns when they consider to buy second hand clothing?

To identify the demand and need of second hand fashion products

-Why and when will they buy it (habit, personal interest, value)?

-Which are the channels they will use if they want to buy second hand clothing/products (i.e online shop, pop up)?

To identify the products that needed to be focused

-What are the products (related to fashion) they will buy?

3. Target segments for the survey

Before we going to set up a survey, for example the questions, we need to have segmentation first. For the following parts, I would like to show how i set the segmentation.

Segmentation is useful at this period because this is the first step to know to what extend the survey needed to be focused.

Segmentation can be divided into two parts.

The first one is called "Market Segmentation". This is macro research that is adopting the needs of value of the societal and cultural phenomena as a based segmentation.

The Second one is called "Customer Segmentation". This is micro research to organize the resources, marketing strategies and communication ways as a key to know the needs and desires of the customers.

The proportion of market share in fashion industry

(Fig.3) (thredup.com, 2021)

Here is the figure from the report of thredup which indicated that second hand clothing ‘s market value is around 9% in the whole fashion market.

The market revenue of fashion industry in HK

(Fig. 4) (Census and Statistics Department Hong Kong Special Administrative Region, 2021)

For the HK market, the revenue of fashion industry is 38242 million in HKD in 2021 as indicated by the statistic. So, if we use the global market value of fashion industry (reused items) (9%) apply to HK’s fashion market, the revenue is not over 3441 million in HKD.

However, as I couldn't found too much data on market revenue of second hand fashion products in HK and also HK don't have this culture for long, it is more resonablely to think that the purchase proportion of HK consumers should be lower than the global standard, around 3-4 % in the total revenue, so 38242 X 3% may be a more resonable number, that is around 1147 million in HKD.

To conclude for this, 1147 - 3441 million in HKD is the estimated amount in the segment of reused fashion products in HK but as the range is large, a survey is needed to make it more clear.

The Customer segment of fashion industry in HK

With this stastic, we can go further to develop the age groups that needed to be focused.

(Fig. 5) (Statista Global Consumer Survey, 2021)

For the customer segment, I used the statistic above and the secondary data to set the segment.

First, from the statistic, we can see 25-44 is the age range that contributed the most in fashion industry in HK.

For the idea of sustainable fashion from major cities in Asia, another report which including HK, also suggested that we should focus to target the young. (KPMG, 2019)

For the actual experience, reuse shop owners called CK said that the 20s are the age segment that don’t mind the reused clothing and they concerned more about the quality, style and value. (Kowloon Post, 2018) Consider that 30s is also close to 20s and have high buying ability so they are also the target customers.

Therefore, at this stage, we should focus on younger customer. Also, it is reasonable to consider that the segment around 20-34 years old is the main consumers. (This is subject to change after the survey, because only secondary data is quite limited at this moment).

Target the best customers

After we have setup the base, the segmentation, it is time to move on how to target the best customers.

In other words, to satisfy the needs of the target customers. This part, we will need the survey to identify them more accurately.

But before we setup the survey, a draft is needed for targeting the best customers. I researched some second data online to know why the customers in HK buy second-hand clothing and did the personas so that i can know which groups are better to focus first. After I discovered some personas, I found that they have some similarities and differences. To identify the target groups’ similarities and differences can better to forecast customer behavior and purchasing preferences. Although at this stage, it is still too early to determine promotional messages and advertisements for connection, it helps to identify the target group more accurately and this would affect where and how I send out to conduct the survey.

*Source: (Chen, 2017)

*Source: (hket.com, 2020)

(chun qíng gen zong kuang, 2018)

(hket.com, 2016)

*Source: (Babyoak193 Kwok, 2021)

(Denis Kwok 193, 2021)

Similarities (For buying the second-hand fashion products) 1. Good value for money (Most important reason)

2. Stylish products are better than normal (Market lacks of stylish products with affordable price)

3. Not necessarily related to the concept of sustainable, but better to include this concept (add values and reasons to buy)

Differences (For buying the second-hand fashion products) 1. Not everyone just concerned the price although this is a majority (For example, artist 193 is now a famous artist and got lots of sponsors but he still keeps on buying second-hand fashion products)

2. Income may not be an important segment for buying second-hand products (Good value for money doesn’t mean cheap products. 3 types of personas from different income showed there may have quite a large varieties background of the customers who have different incomes)

3. Not only fashion lovers would buy second-hand products. (For example, Louisa bought second-hand clothing mainly because the family’s education that better to treasure the things and not to waste, her motivation at first is not for fashion. Of course, she is more concern for stylish products now because she can use image to create a modern and independent’s feeling.)

4. Some may concern the brands of the second-hand clothing, but not a must. Yet it is good to include it because this can use another brand(e.g. Not only luxury brands, brands with good prestige are also ok) to build up self-brand’s image. (e.g. the brand sell second-hand fashion products).

After the personas are done, i found that tha target customers are driven by three main forces from the segment of demographic ,psychographic and benfit. So i decided to combine some of the segment to form a more focus one.

A hybrid segmentation combines several types of customer segmentations to form a unique segmentation strategy. Here i illustrated the following to make it more clear.

Where and how to collect the data

According to the “DAMP”as defined by Philip Kotler (1984), for market segmentation to be effective, all segments must be distinct, accessible, measurable and profitable. (Claessens, 2019)

• Distinct: each segment must clearly differ from other segments, which makes different marketing mixes necessary.

The segments that I mentioned in the previous part identified that in the first stage, we should focus on those who had bought or at least not resist to second-hand products. The age range of them is 20 –34 years old. With this as base, they are probably fashion lovers and looking for something different with reasonable price. This is distinct to other segments and the survey is going to discover more accurately on this area.

• Accessible: buyers must be able to be reached through appropriate promotional activities and distribution channels.

This one is related to where I deliver the survey. After the research on the opinions, I found that a large of them(buyers of second-hand fashion products) like to discuss second-hand fashion products on forums, Facebooks, etc.

The forums (example)

(Fig.6) (discuss.com.hk, 2022)

Facebook ( example )

(Fig.7) (facebook, 2022)

There are also some volunteers to receive second hand clothings which I can cooperate with them so that the people who donate the clothing/products can join my survey.

(The Salvation Army, s.d.)

As stated in the first part, the people who had brought or at least not resist to second hand fashion products are the targets. Here I assumed that those who are willing to donate their products to volunteers may have consideration of sustainable concepts though they may not buy it themselves. Besides, they may also want to use it as a service to earn for their products rather than everything free for donate. Therefore, they might be a strong potential consumers.

To summarize, I will deliver to forum, Facebook, volunteers who receive second-hand clothing to conduct the survey. In addition to them, as some of my friends are working in fashion industry or fashion lovers, they are also my target customers so the survey will include them as well.

Stratified sampling

The methond i choose is stratified sampling, it is a process that generates random samples for a number of sub groups. This can reduce survey cost and ensure there is a sufficent sample size. (OECD,2012)

Stratum 1: Facebook group related to second-hand fashion products

Stratum 2: Online Forum related to second-hand fashion products

Stratum 3: Voluntary organization (through the cooperation/ show some of the printed materials with qr code to conduct survey) (This one cannot be guaranteed because if conduct the survey by personal but no through a brand or organization they may think you are wasting their time.)

Stratum 4: Friends who love fashion.Because some of them are working in this field, i can also do a survey through them and use their connection to expand the size of the survey.

The way to collect

After confirmed where I will get the data, I need to show the way that how to collect.

In survey design, there are several ways to collect the data. For example, through mail, telephone or personal interview, online survey, etc.

As the method I choose is based on internet, online survey would be a more effective way to conduct the survey. Consider that the age 20- 34 are those who are familiar with internet, so this is an effective way to conduct the survey in the method of online questionnaire. Telephone or mail is not easy to target the segment so I would not use this method. Others like personal is also not so efficient at this period as the primay aim is to collect quantitative data first. But if i can find some people to do a more detailed interviews later, it can also help us to know about the needs of the target consumers.

• Measurable: the segment must be easy to identify and measure.

This part i will explain in the final part that how to analyst the segment and identify them.

• Profitable: the segment must be sufficiently large to provide a stream of constant future revenues and profits.”

As mentioned before, this is a growing section in fashion industry and has potential to further development in the near future.

For the size of the survey, as advised by Mayer, it should be at least 100 or above, but as this part may need more study on the calculation and statistic, so it may need more study on that topic but roughly speaking, the number is reasonably to set around 100 to 300 and finish the survey within two to three months.

How to analyze the data for gaining insights into the subject

This part is the final part and i will show how the proposed survey can analyse the data that i want to know and how it related to my original objective in this survey design.

First, let’s review the objective of the suvey

To estimate the market size of the second-hand clothing

To ensure the target segment is the main customer

To acquire the target consumers attitudes towards second-hand clothing/products

To identify the demands and needs of people who buy second-hand clothing

To identify the products that needed to be focused

For the analysis of the data, the questions are related to objectives so that i can get the useful information.

The Designed Flow

This is the designed flow of the survey and it is used to identify and further the development of a brand which will sell second hand fashion products.

The lists of questions

DEMOGRAPHICS

1. What is your age group?

2. What is your gender?

3. What is your occupation?

4. What is your income level?

BEHAVIORAL

5. Have you buy second-hand fashion products before? If yes

PSYCHOGRAPHICS

6. Why did you buy it? (Semi-open)

BEHAVIORAL

7. How did you know it? (Semi-open)

8. What price range(per item) you probably buy?

9. Which channels do you usually use to purchase second-hand fashion products?

10. Which kind of products you would like to buy?(Can choose more than one)

PSYCHOGRAPHICS

If no

6b. What are your concern? (Semi-open)

7b. If the problem stated from your concern is soloved, will you consider to buy second-hand fashion products?

BEHAVIORAL

If yes

8b. What price range will you accept if you buy second-hand clothing in the future?

9b. Which channel do you prefer to buy second-hand clothing in the future?

10b . Which kind of products you would like to buy?(Can choose more than one)

(Not the target)

If no

Thank you for your time.

This is the list of my designed flow and only 10 questions. Both closed questions and semi-opened questions are included(for the reason that i don't include the opened question is because some of the respondents feed back they prefered quick and easy questions) A semi-open question can includes the common choice while give a freedom for those who like to answer it more detailly. As the primary aim is to gain quantitative data in this survey, the opened question will better to use when i conduct a survey through interviews or focus groups.

How to gain insights into the subject?

As you can see in the flow, the collected data can tell us who is doing, thinking or buying. In other words, the data can help us to understand the needs and motivations of the market segment. All of the questions are set to answer and further explain the objectives.

For example, the data collected from the demographics' part can help us to know the market size more accurately, as i explained in the previous, the data from second data is not enough and may need to miscalculate the outcome.

Another example of how to use the data is exclude the people that are not in the target. Because for those who would not accept the use of second-hand products, it is waste time to target them if the brand is a new startup. That part needs more time to educate and surely not easy. If i wrongly focus on them, it is not hard to imagine that the business will face difficulties since the very beginning.

Besides, as more and more people buying online, there is also a part to know if people would accept online purchase of second-hand fashion products or not. That will affect the starting point and if data are showing that the youngs don't mind buying online, it is better to start online first as HK is too small and too expensive to operate a brick and mortal store.

For a new startup, the price ranges and products are very important. There are many different second-hand fashion stores in the market. For example, Mee & Gee is focusing their business on all cheap products while Milan Station is only focusing on luxury bags. So if i can know more the price ranges and products, for example, price not over 500 HKD has potential in both womenswear and menswear, then i can import or collect some second-hand fashion products to fill this gap in the market. And if this also match to the age group, then i can import the style that are fit for the youngs rather than for people who dress more mature.

And for the part of style, i need to clarify this survey is not going to cover, because that part is something more abstract, for example, do you think red dress is better that black dress?

or worker style is better than sporty style? It depends on different time and different people and that need some interviews to make it more clear. Therefore, this is not the primary aim of this survey but better to do it in another way.

Critical Review 2

So What?

After doing the design of survey, i started to think again what is design.

Maybe you will think this is a little bit out of topic because survey seems not so related to design in our daily life.

However, this exercise made me know that surveys are needed to be designed.

Why? Because design is a tool to solve problems and a survey is use data to help you to solve problems. Design is not just styling which many people is misunderstanding on this point.

Even me, although i have been working in fashion industry in a few years. I finally found that why HK's designer are paid in low salary. One of the main reason is that the job of so called 'Designer' is not doing design. In many cases, they are doing something related to styling. For example, we are always been told that made the products more attractive. But everyone has different meaning to attraction. If we only do the things that only related to aesthetic, this is not a real design but more like a styling/art work. And this is not true that you think only aesthetic itself can earn money or just improve the style the look of the specific products can help you to have great success. Then, what are the problems are solved? the sales? No, just the look you think is beautiful/attractive.

This exercise trained us how to think the solution for getting insight and that's design. Of course, i can do the survey beautifully with proper fonts, colors, illustrations and so on. But the main design is the structure of the survey and how you can use it to serve for the customers.

That's design.

What now?

One of the thing i will do is to learn more about the data collection and how to use computer or other programs to get insight. Big data is very important if doing real business. Although i can understand the way how this solve the problems, i also need to learn in order to facilitate the development and know the way to do it in a company/ own business.

Another things i would like to know is AI in the field of research and design. As showing from Mayer, our industry is transfering from old trandition to a new era with the help of AI, so i would browse and learn more how i can do with AI in the future so that our generation can create somthing than is more unique and make more progress in the future.

Lastly, the survey itself also helped me to general some ideas and problems that need to be focused and solved. The next topic of STP model can make me see more of the whole picture and the power of research and communication.

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